32% MARK DOWN - BEARING RETAINER for the RH BEARING on a DELTA 6 X 48 IDLER
32% MARK DOWN - BEARING RETAINER for the RH BEARING on a DELTA 6 X 48 IDLER
32% MARK DOWN - BEARING RETAINER for the RH BEARING on a DELTA 6 X 48 IDLER
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32% MARKDOWN ON IDLER REPAIR KITS UNTIL OUR STOCK IS DEPLETED. THESE CNC MACHINED "FIX KITS" FOR THE IDLER BEARING RETAINER ARE NORMALLY PRICED AT $ 29.40. THEY ARE MARKED DOWN TO $20.00 UNTIL THEY ARE GONE. VINTAGE DELTA 6 X 48 IDLER BEARING RETAINER REPAIR Here’s an awesome “FIX” for retaining the inside idler bearing The inside bearing on the Delta 6 x 48 idler assembly is retained in position by a small threaded collar that Delta calls the “bearing closure”. It is also known as a “spanner nut”. This part, its removal, and its reinstallation can be troublesome. The design has several inherent problem issues: 1. The headless threaded sleeve has no good provision for getting a hold of it. Two small slots in the top edge are all that are available to turn it in or out. Almost no one would have a special wrench for this and such a wrench would be difficult to fabricate. The suggested method of turning the threaded sleeve is to tap on the edge of the cutouts with a sharp punch, alternating from one side to the next. Hammering anything in and out is never a good option !! 2. The threads are very fine pitch, making the sleeve difficult to start square and straight in the casting without cross threading. 3. Add to that, the entry surface to the threaded bore is not machined, leaving the entry threads where the sleeve is to start at a rough and uneven casting surface. 4. The position of the bearing and the closure are deep in the cavity of the casting where access to any reasonable means of dealing with this design is severely hampered. 5. If the fixed side bearing is not retained adequately in the very bottom of its bore and could possibly move, even slightly, during operation of the sander, the tracking of the sanding belt will be adversely affected and uncontrolled. The spanner nut is often damaged during the idler rebuild, by the punch deforming the edges of the slots or the threads. Worse yet, the threads in the casting can be permanently damaged by cross threading the sleeve. We do make and sell a replacement spanner nut for this location. However, if the threads are damaged even our new spanner nut will not fix the issue. We have had problems with the spanner nut numerous times and have now developed a “BETTER” method of retaining the fixed side bearing in its position deep within the casting’s bore. Our new bearing retainer is a precision machine steel part that replaces the spanner nut in its entirety. There are no fine threads to fight, no restricted access condition to deal with, and it can be installed with simple tools in just a few minutes. Installation of our bearing retainer will require that you drill and tap one ¼-20 threaded hole and provide a small bit of backside clearance with a die grinder. The photos show the bearing retainer in position in the casting. It can be installed in either the 1:30 or the 4:30 clock position. The selected position makes no difference. The bearing retainer in the photos is “as machined”. The retainer you buy will be this same part, but it will have been black oxide plated for increased corrosion protection. Here’s how it works. With the bearing seated firmly in the bottom of the bore, the retainer presses against the bearing’s outer race. The small 8-32 screw at the far end of the retainer is snugged down against the casting before the socket head bolt is tightened. The tip of 8-32 screw and the retainer’s collar against the bearing are the two contact points where the pressure is applied by tightening the center bolt. What comes in the retainer kit: a. the CNC machined steel retainer b. a plastic drill bushing that is temporarily pressed into the ¼” diameter hole on the retainer. The bushing properly centers a 1/8” diameter drill bit in the part to create a pilot hole for the tap drill. c. A stainless steel 8-32 screw, a zinc plated steel ¼-20 socket head bolt, and a ¼” lock washer. d. Complete instructions for installing the retainer. The whole installation can be done with a hand drill and with the idler casting secured in a vise. It is imperative that when drilling the pilot hole with the 1/8” bit, that a bit of relief is provided on the backside of the casting where the drill bit will exit. The exit location is right on the edge of the outside vertical wall of the bearing housing. If the drill bit exits at this vertical edge, it will likely break. In one photo, we show a small relief where we ground material away with the die grinder to allow for the necessary clearance at the exit of the pilot hole and ultimate tapped hole. Tools you will need to provide: 1. hand drill 2. 1/8” diameter drill bit 3. #7 tap drill bit 4. ¼-20 hand tap 5. die grinder
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| Isin: | IFTUYY9KLQ28 |
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32% MARKDOWN ON IDLER REPAIR KITS UNTIL OUR STOCK IS DEPLETED. THESE CNC MACHINED "FIX KITS" FOR THE IDLER BEARING RETAINER ARE NORMALLY PRICED AT $ 29.40. THEY ARE MARKED DOWN TO $20.00 UNTIL THEY ARE GONE. VINTAGE DELTA 6 X 48 IDLER BEARING RETAINER REPAIR Here’s an awesome “FIX” for retaining the inside idler bearing The inside bearing on the Delta 6 x 48 idler assembly is retained in position by a small threaded collar that Delta calls the “bearing closure”. It is also known as a “spanner nut”. This part, its removal, and its reinstallation can be troublesome. The design has several inherent problem issues: 1. The headless threaded sleeve has no good provision for getting a hold of it. Two small slots in the top edge are all that are available to turn it in or out. Almost no one would have a special wrench for this and such a wrench would be difficult to fabricate. The suggested method of turning the threaded sleeve is to tap on the edge of the cutouts with a sharp punch, alternating from one side to the next. Hammering anything in and out is never a good option !! 2. The threads are very fine pitch, making the sleeve difficult to start square and straight in the casting without cross threading. 3. Add to that, the entry surface to the threaded bore is not machined, leaving the entry threads where the sleeve is to start at a rough and uneven casting surface. 4. The position of the bearing and the closure are deep in the cavity of the casting where access to any reasonable means of dealing with this design is severely hampered. 5. If the fixed side bearing is not retained adequately in the very bottom of its bore and could possibly move, even slightly, during operation of the sander, the tracking of the sanding belt will be adversely affected and uncontrolled. The spanner nut is often damaged during the idler rebuild, by the punch deforming the edges of the slots or the threads. Worse yet, the threads in the casting can be permanently damaged by cross threading the sleeve. We do make and sell a replacement spanner nut for this location. However, if the threads are damaged even our new spanner nut will not fix the issue. We have had problems with the spanner nut numerous times and have now developed a “BETTER” method of retaining the fixed side bearing in its position deep within the casting’s bore. Our new bearing retainer is a precision machine steel part that replaces the spanner nut in its entirety. There are no fine threads to fight, no restricted access condition to deal with, and it can be installed with simple tools in just a few minutes. Installation of our bearing retainer will require that you drill and tap one ¼-20 threaded hole and provide a small bit of backside clearance with a die grinder. The photos show the bearing retainer in position in the casting. It can be installed in either the 1:30 or the 4:30 clock position. The selected position makes no difference. The bearing retainer in the photos is “as machined”. The retainer you buy will be this same part, but it will have been black oxide plated for increased corrosion protection. Here’s how it works. With the bearing seated firmly in the bottom of the bore, the retainer presses against the bearing’s outer race. The small 8-32 screw at the far end of the retainer is snugged down against the casting before the socket head bolt is tightened. The tip of 8-32 screw and the retainer’s collar against the bearing are the two contact points where the pressure is applied by tightening the center bolt. What comes in the retainer kit: a. the CNC machined steel retainer b. a plastic drill bushing that is temporarily pressed into the ¼” diameter hole on the retainer. The bushing properly centers a 1/8” diameter drill bit in the part to create a pilot hole for the tap drill. c. A stainless steel 8-32 screw, a zinc plated steel ¼-20 socket head bolt, and a ¼” lock washer. d. Complete instructions for installing the retainer. The whole installation can be done with a hand drill and with the idler casting secured in a vise. It is imperative that when drilling the pilot hole with the 1/8” bit, that a bit of relief is provided on the backside of the casting where the drill bit will exit. The exit location is right on the edge of the outside vertical wall of the bearing housing. If the drill bit exits at this vertical edge, it will likely break. In one photo, we show a small relief where we ground material away with the die grinder to allow for the necessary clearance at the exit of the pilot hole and ultimate tapped hole. Tools you will need to provide: 1. hand drill 2. 1/8” diameter drill bit 3. #7 tap drill bit 4. ¼-20 hand tap 5. die grinder
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